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Italian Series #7: Barbaresco – Commune by Commune, Cru by Cru

  • Lamont's Wine Store Cottesloe 12 Station Street Cottesloe, WA, 6011 Australia (map)

“Barbaresco is a wine of unmatched elegance and refinement, while Barolo offers more power and structure. Ultimately, it’s really a case of first among equals.”
Decanter

La Spinetta | Massolino | Figli Luigi Oddero | Produttori del Barbaresco
Paitin | Piero Busso | Albino Rocca | Rizzi

Monday 28 July

Session 7: Barbaresco
Hosted By Brendan Jansen MW
Masterclass: 6-8pm, 12 Wines & Substantial Canapes $225
(Only 14 seats available - private dining room event)

Masterclass Tickets

Barbaresco’s Four Sub Regions:

Barbaresco is produced across four key communes. The largest is Barbaresco itself, surrounding the historic village and accounting for around 45% of production. Neive follows closely with approximately 35%, while Treiso contributes about 20%. A small portion also comes from San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, a hamlet officially part of the Commune of Alba.

Commune di Treiso:

Top Crus: Pajorè | Bernardot | Rizzi | Bricco di Treiso
Top producers: Sottimano | Rizzi | Paitin | Ca’ del Baio

Contributing about 20% of the region’s output, Treiso is the highest and coolest of the Barbaresco communes, and its wines are often more elegant, lifted, and aromatic, with slightly firmer acidity and structure.

Commune di San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (Alba):

Top Crus: Montersino | Rocche Massalupo
Top producers: Bruno Rocca | Albino Rocca | Piero Busso

This is a small and isolated zone, technically a frazione of Alba, with just a handful of crus. The wines tend to be rustic, earthy, and savoury, with lower production but distinctive character.

Commune di Barbaresco:

Top Crus: Asili | Rabajà | Martinenga | Montestefano | Pajè
Top producers: Produttori del Barbaresco, Bruno Giacosa, Ceretto

Arguably the most celebrated cru in Barbaresco. Known for producing wines with extraordinary finesse, perfume, and age-worthiness. Soft tannins, floral aromatics, and balance.

Commune di Neive:

Top Crus: Serraboella | Gallina | Rombone | Basarin | Currà
Top producers:
Castello di Neive | Paitin | La Spinetta | Luigi Oddero

The commune of Neive is the second largest Barbaresco-producing area, accounting for around 35% of total production. Wines from Neive are often more structured, tannic, and powerful, especially from its warmer, lower-elevation sites — though the best vineyards also offer perfume, depth, and longevity.


Meet the host…

Master of Wine: Brendan Jansen

Brendan Jansen MW is a specialist medical practitioner, and the development of his expertise in wine began with his involvement in tasting groups with colleagues. His love affair with wine was cemented when he lived in Italy for two years, during which time he developed an affinity for, and in-depth knowledge of, Italian wines. Brendan's passion is for wine education and appreciation, and this has inspired his MW journey. Tastings led by Brendan are fun and informative and involve a deeper exploration of the varieties and regions covered.

The Master of Wine qualification indicates that the title recipient has completed the toughest series of examinations on viticulture, wine making styles and techniques, all wine regions, and all pluses and minuses in the marketing of these wines on planet. Then added to this is the requirement for an extraordinary ability to discern the bouquet & flavour nuances caused by the factors above which indicate the wine’s variety, age, wine making techniques used, regions, quality, hygiene and seasonal variations. 

The title MW is the greatest imprimatur or recognition that the wine world can give to its most able students. After 50 years of Master of Wine graduates there are just 2 in Western Australia and perhaps 24 in Australia.


The Wine List

First bracket -
Treiso & San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (Alba)

2020 Rizzi Barbaresco Nervo
Aromas of macerated raspberries waft from the glass of this beautiful wine with drying rose petals, orange peel and sweet spices following. A near masterpiece on the palate with an ebb and flow of tart red fruits, flowers, savory herbs and dried leaves all melding together finishing with soft tannins and lifted acidity. Drink now–2035.
94 Points, Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast
2020 Rizzi Barbaresco Pajore
Enchants in the well-defined floral sensory profile, slightly withered with citrus notes of great thickness that recall green mandarins and bergamot. Rose petals and guarana describe the secondary scene. Full body, silky in the taste character recalls noble spices in the aftertasting. Drink now.
95 Points, Raffaele Vecchione , winescritic.com
2020 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Montersino

A pure violet perfume shines from the glass allied to dark wild fruits and watermelon. Full of sucrosity on the palate, this Montersino is vibrant and savoury, with elegant tannins and lifted, integrated acidity. There is a lot of limestone here at 400m where this vineyard is based and which imprints a remarkable finesse.
95 Points, Aldo Fiordelli , Decanter
2019 Figli Luigi Oddero 'Rombone' Barbaresco
Treiso. Just mid ruby. Cool, yet concentrated raspberry fruit on the nose. Elegant, supple full raspberry palate that is still a little tight. Rich coating tannins that fit the fragrant full fruit like a glove. Stunning balance and depth, and still light of touch. Just at the beginning of its development.
18/20 Points, Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com

Second Bracket -
Barbaresco (village)

2021 Produttori del Barbaresco
2021 was an exceptional year in the Langhe as is clearly demonstrated by the gorgeous 2021 Barbaresco from Produttori. It boasts beautiful aromas of violet, rose, cake spice and mint that carry over to the elegant palate along with succulent red cherry, crushed raspberry and star anise. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity keep it impeccably balanced. Made from blending Nebbiolo from different vineyard sites, this is the firm’s classic Barbaresco and is one of the greatest values in Italian fine wine.
96 Points, Kerin O'Keefe, KerinOKeefe.com
2020 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi
The 2020 Barbaresco Ronchi stands out in this range for its breadth and textural resonance. There's gorgeous palate presence. Sweet red plum, blood orange, spice, new leather and incense fill out the layers. It’s a compelling wine in every way, and one that handles its alcohol quite well.
95 Points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
2019 Luigi Giordano 'Cavanna' Barbaresco Nebbiolo
Red cherry, strawberry and cream, a little spice, lively perfume. Medium-bodied, red fruits, pumice stone tannin, succulent, such poise and finesse, and a long finish. Not as concentrated as the other crus from this producer in 2019, though nevertheless, a beautiful wine offering charm and great drinking appeal.
94 Points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2017 Ca' Rome' 'Maria di Brün' Barbaresco Nebbiolo
Rich yet compact aromas and flavors of red and black berries and cherries, together with notes of wet earth, forest floor and even a hint of menthol. Full-bodied, dense and silky with lots of refined tannin that is starting to meld nicely into the rich fruit. Big finish that’s already long, but will only gain with time. Drink from 2024.
95 Points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com

Third Bracket -
Neive

2022 Massolino Barbaresco Albesani Nebbiolo
This powerful red boasts cherry, strawberry, rose, earth, tar and underbrush aromas and flavors. The savory notes emerge as this builds to a long, solidly built finish. Shows excellent harmony, texture and staying power, with a minty finish
95 Points, Wine Spectator
2020 Paitin 'Serraboella' Barbaresco Nebbiolo
95 Points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
The 2020 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin is a regal, elegant wine. Powerful yet delicate, with tons of understated power, the Sorì Paitin is a textbook example of what fine Barbaresco can be. Sweet red cherry fruit, kirsch, mint, blood orange, spice, hard candy and orange peel soar out of the glass, framed by silky yet incisive young Nebbiolo tannins. The balance here is just sublime. For my money, this is the Paitin Barbaresco to buy in 2020.
2019 Piero Busso Barbaresco San Stunet Nebbiolo
Cherry, liquorice, stony, grilled nuts. It’s a fleshy wine, bright cool acidity though rich nutty fruit, lots of fine crushed rock tannin, with a finish of excellent length. It has depth and interest, and there’s something about it that gets me in.
94 Points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front

2020 La Spinetta Barbaresco 'Gallina' Nebbiolo
Doctor Wine: 96 points | Veronelli: 96 points
The 2020 Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina is terrific. Brilliant and focused, with mid-weight depth, the 2020 impresses with its poise more than anything else. All the elements are so well balanced. Dried flowers, spice, herbs, mint and licorice open with a bit of coaxing. As is often the case, the Gallina is quite understated in feel.
94 Points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com


Italian Series No. 7 Masterclass Tickets
Online Store - Italy
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30 July

The Legendary Massolino: Hosted by Angel of Serralunga - Giovanni Angeli, Winemaker