Burgundy Series #2: Meursault | Vintage 2022
Our Burgundy series is back! For this second installment, join us as we deep dive into the renowed region of Meursault… specifically comparing wines across 4 domaines from 2022.
11 White Burgundies across 4 Domaines
The Domaines:
Pernot-Bélicard | Philippe Chavy | Jean Monnier | Chapelle de Blagny
Taste the Pernot-Bélicard Meursault 1er cru Perrières 2022, plus three wines from Domaine Chapelle de Blagny, Three wines from Philippe Chavy and…Four Meursaults from Jean Monnier, a historic family domaine producing old-vine Meursault. Taste through Vielles Vignes, La Barre, Les Chevalieres, and Les Rougeots…each site offering its own signature minerality and texture. Although there aren’t many reviews available on the 2021 & 2022 Jean Monnier wines, they’ve recently received 97 points (platinum) at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2024 for their 2021 Meursault ‘Vieilles Vignes’ which showcases Jean Monnier’s beautiful fruit quality and density.
“In a surprisingly short period, Chapelle de Blagny has become a must-buy Meursault producer.”
Matthew Jukes
18/20 Points - Matthew Jukes on the Chapelle de Blagny Meursault 1er cru Ravelles 2022
————
The 2022 Vintage
“2022 is an amazingly consistent vintage. I tasted almost no poor wines. Everything was good to very good, with occasional touches of greatness.”
Jasper Morris
“Burgundy's 2022 vintage delivered something vintners here haven’t seen since since 2017: cellars full of excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.”
Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator
————
Sunday, January 11th
Burgundy Series #2: Meursault and the 2022 Vintage
Lunch: 12-3pm | 11 Wines and 4 Courses | $295.00
Masterclass: 4pm-6pm | 11 Wines and Kate Lamont Canapés | $195.00
Dinner: 6.30pm | 11 Wines and 4 Courses | $295.00
The Critic’s Perspective on the 2022 Burgundy Vintage
[The White Wines]
ALLEN MEADOWS, BURGHOUND.COM
2022 Vintage Summary –
A Terrific Year for White Burgundies:
… 2022 is the best White Burgundy vintage since 2017 and rivals, if not surpasses, 2014 in quality. …
In summary, 2022 may not be a perfect White Burgundy vintage but it’s pretty damn good. I believe it’s a vintage to buy and in quantity …
The 2022 Côte d’Or Whites –
“An Excellent, Perhaps Even Great, Vintage…”
As I mentioned in the introduction, pretty much everyone was very upbeat about the 2022 vintage as a whole and in particular, just how good the whites are. … In another parallel with 2020, I cannot emphasize enough this palpable sense of energy on the palate that makes these wines so exciting. …
CHARLES CURTIS MW
2022: Whites 4/5; Reds 4.5/5
The red wines from 2022 are deeply coloured, with a lush fruit expression, full body, well- developed but velvety tannins and abundant extract. The whites have a lush fruit character spanning ripe apple, peach and apricot and relatively soft acidity, suggesting these wines are primarily for early drinking. To achieve proper balance, some winemakers had to acidify. In both reds and whites, it is the acid balance that holds 2022 Burgundy back from the very highest level, but the wines will be accessible and early- drinking, and the reds should age well. Overall quality is very high for red wines and good to very good for white wines.
JASPER MORRIS
2022 is an amazingly consistent vintage. I tasted almost no poor wines. Everything was good to very good, with occasional touches of greatness…
I believe that 2022 does deserve the epithet classic, albeit Modern Classic…. Few have the breathtaking intensity that suggests legendary bottles 25 or 50 years down the road.
BRUCE SANDERSON, WINE SPECTATOR
“2022 is a great vintage, with good quantity,”
Burgundy's 2022 vintage delivered something vintners here haven’t seen since since 2017: cellars full of excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
MATTHEW HAYES, JANCISROBINSON.COM
2022 saw a reboot to form in Burgundy’s recent run of sunny vintages after the poor weather and climatic challenges of 2021. Beyond any doubt, 2022 has produced excellent wine, both red and white, up and down the Côte d’Or and beyond.
The Domaines in Context
-
White Burgundies you never heard of.” Philippe is a genuine, gifted and hardworking Puligny Montrachet vigneron and winemaker. In each instance his wines are amongst the finest available, and whilst not cheap, remain very good value for money given the quality.
This small six-hectare domaine located in the heart of Puligny-Montrachet is making rapid strides. Philippe Pernot (a scion of the Paul Pernot dynasty) launched the Pernot Belicard label in 2009, gradually selling less and less to the négociants. In the vineyards, he cultivates the soils, de-buds aggressively and takes pains to retain his old vines in good health. The grapes are harvested by hand, with Philippe typically among the earlier pickers in the village. Since 2014, there's more sorting, the grapes passing over a shaker table before being whole cluster pressed. Initially, the wines were bottled to make room for the new vintage, but Philippe, evidently an enquiring mind, felt that something was missing: now, the wines stay in barrel until August, but spend an additional three to six months in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with the fine lees.
The result, he contends (and I concur), are wines that are more integrated and complete. These are already very good wines, and Philippe possesses some enviable parcels, but it is his desire to refine and improve that marks this out as an estate to watch.
William Kelley, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate -
Based in Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Philippe Chavy has been farming vines across the Côte de Beaune for nearly a century. The majority of the estate’s Puligny-based vines were planted by Philippe’s father during the 1950s, though the property’s oldest vines in Meursault date back to 1932.
Today, Domaine Philippe Chavy comprises a total of eight hectares of vines spread across 30 plots and 14 appellations, and are planted to Chardonnay, Aligoté, Pinot Noir, and Gamay.
Under Philippe’s oversight, all use of herbicides and insecticides has been eschewed at the domaine, so as to preserve the terroir and encourage natural biodiversity amongst the vines. All fruit is picked by hand and meticulously cared for during the entire growing cycle—in the words of Philippe, “no good wine can be made without sound grapes.”
In the cellar, fermentations take place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, as freshness and acidity are of utmost importance. All Chavy wines mature in oak barrels of various ages and undergo regular lees stirring prior to being bottled in conjunction with the lunar calendar.
Currently, Philippe has two full-time employees that help him in the vineyards and cellar year-round. His wife, Graziella, handles all aspects of sales and administration.
“I am fortunate enough to live and work in the heart of one of the most prestigious Chardonnay vineyards in the world,” says Philippe. “Each and every vine and the grapes they yield command respect. It is my daily task to enrich this inheritance just like my parents and grandparents when they started.”
-
Established in 1720 in Meursault, Domaine Jean
Monnier is one of Burgundy’s oldest domaines.
Nicolas Monnier is a 16th-generation winemaker.
The domaine comprises 17 hectares - with parcels
in Meursault, Puligny Montrachet, Volnay,
Pommard and Beaune.
The vine age largely ranges from 25 to 60 years.
Interestingly, Domaine Jean Monnier is one of
the few producers in Meursault to produce
equal amounts of white and red wine. -
The Domaine Chapelle de Blagny has been around for generations, and not many people had heard of it because they sold all their grapes to the Beaune negociants. However for a couple decades now they have been crafting gorgeous wines from the highest vineyards in Meursault.
“In a surprisingly short period, Chapelle de Blagny has become a must-buy Meursault producer.” Matthew Jukes
The hamlet of Blagny is a Cistercian heritage site and even during the earlier gallo-roman period it is believed that the inhabitants cultivated vines.
From the 12th to the 18th century Blagny belonged to the Cistercian order established in the nearby abbey of Maizières. As commented by several 18th century writers, it appears that the monks’ knowledge of winegrowing had already built up the reputation of Blagny for its fine wine.
After the revolution, the domaine was sold in 1793 as national property and then acquired in 1811 by an ancestor of the present owner, Etienne de Brechard, and for five generations the family tended the vines, harvesting the grapes and up until recently sold them to local merchants. The property is named after a 15th century chapel located next to the winery which still remains today.
The Premier Cru vineyards in the hamlet of Meursault-Blagny may be less well-known than other Premier Crus like Perrières, Genevrières or Charmes, but quality-wise they rival the best, especially as their higher elevation now gives them an advantage in warm weather. Situated at the highest point of the Premier Crus on high, steep slopes straddling the communes of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, the high altitude protects them from the effects of global warming, allowing the natural acidities to be maintained.
The vineyards are all located on the terroir of Blagny.
– Vines planted in white located on the commune of Meursault, have “Meursault-Blagny” appellation.
– Vines planted in white located on the commune of Puligny-Montrachet, have “Puligny-Montrachet, Hameau de Blagny” appellation.
The Wine List
Jean Monnier Meursault Vieilles Vignes 2022
Light brioche and buttered-toast aromas here, together with apple crumble and pear. It’s creamy and full-bodied. Lightly toasty, but fresh and elegant. Nicely done. Drink now.
91 Points - Claire Nesbitt, JamesSuckling.com
Phillipe Chavy Meursault 2022
Mostly from Pellands and Gruyaches. Clear pale lemon. Though the nose has evolved a bit, it is still easy to recognise the quality. Brilliant chiselled fresh limestone character on the palate, plenty of energy, stony nuances, and great persistence. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Oct 2023.
91-92 Points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
First Course
Jean Monnier Meursault La Barre 2022
Jean Monnier Meursault Les Rougeots 2022
Jean Monnier Meursault Les Chevalieres 2022
Second Course
Chapelle de Blagny Meursault-Blagny 1er cru Sous le Dos d’Ane 2022 (Meursault Border)
Cask sample. Inviting creamy citrus aroma with a mineral/stony side to it. Smells cool and vibrant. On the palate, direct, vital and finely balanced between the fruit, crisp acidity and fine, dry, textured finish. (JH)
16.5/20 - Jancis Robinson
Chapelle de Blagny Meursault-Blagny 1er cru La Pièce sous le Bois 2022 (Meursault Border)
Phillipe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet 'Rue Rousseau' 2022 (Meursault Border)
Pale colour, minor evolution. This has just a little more fruit than the Corvée des Vignes with just as many nuances. This also has excellent promise. Juicy and racy. Hard to choose between two excellent wines. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2023.
91-92 Points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
Third Course
Chapelle de Blagny Meursault 1er cru Ravelles 2022
There are two wines from this terrific estate that scored identical 18s, and the main difference between the two is that Les Ravelles is more forward and enticing right now, and Meursault 1er Cru Blagny Sous le Dos d’Âne (£320 per 6 bottles IB; 18+/20) is closed and introverted and will require at least four years to unravel (yes, that’s a pun)! In a surprisingly short period, Chapelle de Blagny has become a must-buy Meursault producer. These bottles cost less than £70 all in, and I think this is a steal for this level of refinement.
18/20 Points - Matthew Jukes, matthewjukes.com
This wine has a lot going on, from lemon curd, smoked citrus peel, fleshy mandarin, gentle toastiness from the oak, vanilla pods, and hawthorn flowers. The texture goes hand in hand with the juiciness of that slurpable pulpy citrus and white nectarine. Finesse and balance are the keys to this wine. This is not the usual Meursault that slaps you on the face with its power; rather, it is more ethereal.
96 Points - Lisa Cardelli , Wine Pilot [Tasted January 2025]
Philippe Chavy Meursault-Charmes 1er cru 2022
Light lemon colour. The bouquet has not evolved, retaining a steely character alongside the weight of Charmes. This has all that it should, with the extra depth of flavour expected in a front line 1er Cru. The holding is in upper Charmes and it shows. A bright and chiselled finish with excellent potential. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.
92-95 Points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
Pernot-Bélicard Meursault 1er cru Perrières 2022
Clear pale colour. This has energy on the nose without much detail yet. Good clean fruit builds steadily, white orchard fruit, some weight. Generous and with excellent length, the white flesh keeps building, accompanied by adequate acidity. Drink from 2028-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.
93 Points - Neal Martin, Vinous [Jan 2024]
Fourth Course