Dinner with Two Legends of Barbaresco … for 11 Marchesi di Gresi Barbarescos and 5 Courses
For a fascinating evening, co-hosted by Australia’s passionate and knowledgeable all things Piedmont, David Ridge, and one of the most recognisable characters in Italian wine, Jeff Chilcott, the Kiwi-born Cellarmaster of the great Marchesi di Grésy.
This monopole vineyard sits proudly in the “dress circle” of Barbaresco, flanked on either side by two other icons, Rabajà and Asili. Despite their proximity, each vineyard is utterly distinct. Martinenga itself produces Nebbiolo of extraordinary beauty, fragrance, and elegance — surely among the most beautiful expressions of the grape.
Jeff is opening an 8 Barbaresco selection of the Martinenga Cru wines, with its celebrated sub-plots Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun and Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros.
Some great Barbaresco vintages being opened:
2013, 2014, 2015, 2018, 2020, 2021 & 2022
These are preceded by great warm-up acts: the estate’s superb Chardonnay– Burgundian yet so Italian, from the great 21 vintage, brilliant Barbera, and elegant Langhe Nebbiolo.
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Thursday, January 29th
Join hosts David Ridge, Principal David Ridge Wines
& Jeffrey Chilcott, longterm Winemaker and Cellar Master Marchesi di Gresy
Dinner: 7pm | 11 Wines and 5 Courses | $295.00
Marchesi di Gresi
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The wines of the Marchesi di Gresy are some of the most beautiful you will experience. The Nebbiolo of their famed Monopole Martinenga produces wines of incredible colour, perfumes, intensity and elegance. The di Gresy family have been in Barbaresco for centuries. They record taking ownership of the Monte Aribaldo property in Treiso comune in 1650, and in 1797, they were gifted Martinenga itself, the site of the first Roman settlement in the area, known then as Villa Martis. Yet the family only started to vinify from this famous property, for themselves, in the 1970s.
David Ridge, David Ridge Wine
Martinenga sits in the Barbaresco Dress Circle between Asili & Rabajà.
Where Asili & Rabajà are both shared with 10-12 makers, Martinenga is a monopole.
With only one maker marketing Martinenga it flies under the radar in some markets, like Australia…Marchesi di Gresy’s wines meet you with intoxicating perfumes, seamless elegance and refined textures.
-Paul Kaan, winedecoded.com.au“Marchesi di Grésy is a reference point in Barbaresco. The di Grésy family has long made wines that epitomize the finesse and elegance that is such a signature of Barbaresco. I tasted many terrific wines on my most recent visit … “
-Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 2024“Marchesi di Grésy impresses with wines that emphasize elegance above all else. The Barbarescos will especially appeal to readers who prize finely sketched, nuanced wines.”
- Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 2023A letter on Marchesi di Gresy from Dave Ridge
The wines of the Marchesi di Gresy are some of the most beautiful you will experience. The Nebbiolo of their famed Monopole Martinenga, produces wines of incredible colour, perfumes, intensity and elegance. I have been tasting there for over 25 years and have deeply, and even a little jealously, admired these wines. You can only imagine my response when, after more than two decades of tasting visits, Alessandro di Gresy asked me if I would represent their interests in Australia (and yes, I did say “Il Papa e Catolicco?” or vernacular to that effect).
The di Gresy family have been in Barbaresco for centuries. They record taking ownership of the Monte Aribaldo property in Treiso commune in 1650 and in 1797 they were gifted Martinenga itself, site of the first Roman settlement in the area, known then as Villa Martis.
In their seminal book ‘Italy’s Noble Red Wines’ (1985) – a must-have text – Sheldon and Pauline Wasserman rated Martinenga as the greatest of Barbaresco vineyards, one step higher even than Rabaja and Asili, or the Santo Stefano of Albesani. This was based mainly on their summary or survey at the time, of the opinions of local experts and producers, rather than anything official or codified. In fact this repute would have partly been based on wines made by others, as it wasn’t until 1973 that Alberto di Gresy started to vinify Martinenga for themselves. In 1971 eg, he sold his grapes to the Ceretto brothers and in 1967 Produttori del Barbaresco made the quite celebrated Barbaresco Riserva Speciale Martinenga. Before long and rightly, Martinenga was joined by Asili and Rabaja in the top division.
From the outskirts of Barbaresco township you can look down onto the magical natural amphitheater of 12 ha of Martinenga …
It is the two famous sub-plots at opposite ends of the Martinenga property, each of which adjoin one of the other of the two acknowledged Grands Cru, that make this the heartland of Barbaresco. You’ll see from the little map above, that the Martinenga sub-plot of Gaiun adjoins the great Asili and sub-plot Camp Gros rolls into Rabaja.
While I would add the Santo Stefano sub-plot (lieux dit in French) of Albesani (Neive) and others would propose nearby Paje and Rio Sordo, the three recognised (albeit unofficial) Grands Cru each produce wines that underline the equal status of Barbaresco with Barolo. Any day.
The fascinating and clearly different, yet of course related natures and personalities of Martinenga Gaiun and Martinenga Camp Gros (always released as Riserva), are explored more in notes and attached reviews, but suffice to say they each echo their respective neighbours, Asili and Rabaja in both aromatics and feel.
Thanks, David Ridge
Oh yes, and Clones? Dave Ridge
Martinenga is home to the only experimental vineyard for the clonal selection of Nebbiolo in the Barbaresco commune. Eleven different clones on an area of 2.600 square meters are constantly monitored by the di Gresy team, in cooperation with agronomists and oenologists of the National Research Council (CNR), to understand all aspects of the variety … and how different clones respond to climate change etc
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In their seminal book ‘Italy’s Noble Red Wines’ (1985) - a must-have text - Sheldon and Pauline Wasserman rated Martinenga as the greatest of Barbaresco vineyards, one step higher even than Rabaja and Asili, or the Santo Stefano of Albesani. This was based mainly on their summary of the opinions of local experts and producers rather than anything official or codified. In fact, this repute would have partly been based on wines made by others, as it wasn’t until 1973 that Alberto di Gresy started to vinify Martinenga for themselves. Eventually, of course, at least Asili and Rabaja have been recognised with Martinenga in the top division. From the outskirts of Barbaresco township, you can look down onto the magical natural amphitheatre of 12 ha of Martinenga. The soil here is the classic Tortonian blue-grey limestone marl that constitutes most of the Barbaresco zone.
While there is a bit of Barbera, Cabernet, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon planted, the main game is Nebbiolo, which provides all the material for the beautiful Langhe Nebbiolo and for the three separate Barbaresco bottlings. It is the two famous sub-plots at opposite ends of the Martinenga property, each of which adjoins one of the other of the two acknowledged Grands Cru, that makes this the heartland of Barbaresco. You’ll see from the little map above that the Martinenga sub-plot of Gaiun adjoins the great Asili, and the sub-plot Camp Gros rolls into Rabaja. These three recognised (albeit unofficial) Grands Cru each produce wines that underline the equal status of Barbaresco with Barolo; any day. Martinega Gauin and Martinenga Camp Gros (always released as Riserva) each have absolutely fascinating and distinctive characteristics, but they do echo their respective neighbours, Asili and Rabaja, in both aromatics and feel.
- David Ridge, davidridgewines.com.au
Our Hosts & Legends of Barbaresco
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Introducing David Ridge to WA
David Ridge has four decades experience as a partner or principal in distribution. His companies, Classic Wine Merchants, David Ridge Wines and Distinguished Vineyards, have represented some of the great names of wine.
Having made his first trip to Piedmont in 1988, he has now made 43 trips of 1 to 2 weeks each into the area and with some 100+ containers imported, it is, as he describes, the only place outside of Adelaide where he would live.
David visits on average 15 to 17 producers each visit, and averages tasting over 300 wines per trip.
When looking at new producers he always requests to look at the lesser vintages so to be better able to properly evaluate the producer. -
Introducing Jeff Chilcott to WA
Jeff Chilcott, long term Cellarmaster & hands on winemaker at Marchesi di Gresy in Barbaresco.
Jeff, an Auckland hospitality boy, arrived in Piedmont for the first time in 1990.
He left and returned several times but soon ensconced himself with the
Marchesi di Gresy team.
He returns to visit NZ each year.
The Wine List
2021 Marchesi di Gresy Langhe Chardonnay Grésy
The Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2021 Langhe Chardonnay Grésy is part of a small but very interesting group of white wines made in the Langhe, Piedmont. Citrusy at first, this Chardonnay follows through with aromas of ladies' perfume and sweet butter pastry. With time, this shows dried herb and candied lemon drop. It offers intensity and elegance (and is aged in oak for 18 months). This is a 9,000-bottle release.
93 Points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate, January 2025
Prosciutto, melon, Parmesan cream
2024 Barbera d’Asti
The 2024 Barbera d'Asti is fragrant, juicy and easy to like. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit and white pepper give the 2024 terrific brightness. The style is on the vibrant, lighter side, but it works quite well for this bottling. Floral overtones lift the close.
90 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2025
2024 Langhe Nebbiolo
The 2024 Langhe Nebbiolo is another terrific entry-level offering from Marchesi di Grésy. Floral and gracious, the Langhe Nebbiolo captures the essence of the house style. Crushed flowers, red Nebbiolo fruit, rose petal, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco linger.
90 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2025
Abrolhos half shell scallops, nduja butter
2022 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga
The 2022 Barbaresco Martinenga is a pretty extroverted wine for the estate, with more overt body than most years. Even so, its balance is impeccable. Intense red-toned fruit, cedar, pipe tobacco, mint and white pepper lend aromatic brilliance. The Martinenga can typically be enjoyed on release, but I would give the 2022 a bit of time in bottle.
91 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, October 2025
2021 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga
Always a classical wine, the Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2021 Barbaresco Martinenga brings us the sharpness and power of an epic vintage. This wine has a medium-dark luminous color and is light on its feet. The aromas are bright and lively with fresh berry and cassis. The oak contouring is delicate, and the wine benefits structurally from healthy skins, grapes and pulp. There is a delightful hint of Nebbiolo sweetness on the close. This is a 24,000-bottle release.
95 Points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate, January 2025
2020 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga
One of the appellation's classic wines, the Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2020 Barbaresco Martinenga delivers a soft entry to the palate with subtle cherry and sweet raspberry. Those fruit tones are laced with dusty mineral and white licorice. The wine delivers medium-weight texture, but the finish remains long and polished over time. The tannins will soften with a few more years of bottle age. This is a production of 24,047 bottles.
94 Points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate, August 2023
Gnocchi, saffron braised tomatoes, ricotta salata
2018 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga
Macerated cherry, plum, licorice, iron and eucalyptus flavors permeate this concentrated yet supple red, which is rich but never heavy, with ample acidity and dense, refined tannins lending support. Trades a little freshness for ripeness and depth. Best from 2026 through 2043. 625 cases made.
96 Points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator, April 2024
The 2018 Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga is a beautiful wine that shows the style of both the vintage and cru perched just above Asili. Dark cherry/plum, spice, menthol, licorice and a touch of nicely judged oak fill out the layers. In 2018 Gaiun is a bit light, as most wines are, and yet its balance is absolutely impeccable. Terrific.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous, September 2023
2018 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga
Fresh and floral with orange peel, crab apples, and cranberries. Flowers. Full-bodied with a very fine line of tannins through the center palate. Lovely texture. Persistent finish. Power with elegance. Gorgeous now but will age beautifully. An excellent example of this fresh and fine vintage. Better after 2026.
97 Points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com, June 2023
Pork and fennel involtini, cannellini bean aioli, salsa verde
2015 Marchesi Di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga
The first glimpses of mahogany appear at this stage, suggesting an initial step to revealing its future extraordinary complexities. Again, like its sibling wines, we have a familiar roast/baked orange varietal/site stamp, with the added richness of subtle meat reduction, reminiscent of chicken fat sauce. Very enticing. Very gastronomic. This is a seriously complex wine; its clear and refined savoury stockiness suggesting anise and fennel, while the expected tannin load is about embellishing rather than overwhelming, gracefully relinquishing its command of the palate to allow the wine’s glorious flavours to remain the lasting memory.
97 Points, Tony Love, Winepilot, August 2021
Wonderfully perfumed with cedar, sandalwood and ripe strawberries, but subtle and very fine. It’s medium-bodied with integrated tannins. Extremely long and focused. Superb.
97 Points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com, June 2020
2014 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga
The 2014 Barbaresco Gaiun is simply stunning. Rich, layered and explosive, with tremendous depth, the 2014 is all class. Dark cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice, new leather and spice race across the palate. Gaiun has rarely been this aristocratic, profound or complete. The 2014 is all that, and more.
96 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2018
2013 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga
I love the tension and the glossy elegance here. The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga is silky, bright and buoyant. It is complete and shows a lot of depth. It offers fresh acidity, and while it has a lean approach, it definitely has impressive length. This wine should evolve nicely over the next 10-20 years.
95 Points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate, April 2019
A wine of reserve and tension, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga is going to need at least a few years in bottle to be at its very best. Today, the Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga is somewhat unyielding, but also persistent and beautifully focused, with striking aromatics and a core of sweet, perfumed fruit that just needs time to emerge. Aeration in the glass brings out hints of lavender, sage, mint and rose petal to round things out. Although it is embryonic, the 2013 clearly possesses tremendous balance and class, not to mention tons of potential.
95 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, August 2018
Angus a la minute, garlic and peppercorn, leafy greens
Salted caramel affogato